內衣外穿

布蘭妮·斯皮爾斯（左）和奧斯卡·洛亞（英語：Oscar Loya）（右）曾在舞台表演時外穿內衣。

內衣外穿是一種受名人、體育界和媒體界推崇的時尚潮流（英語：fashion trend），最初隨着T恤和比基尼泳衣等實用舒適服飾種類的誕生出現，但後來演變成飽受爭議、被認為有挑釁性的時尚宣揚。到了21世紀，這種類型的女性版本會展示丁字褲和胸罩，男性版本展示低腰褲下的男式內褲。而早在16世紀至17世紀，內衣外穿便有歷史先例^[1]。

歷史

內衣外穿潮流正式出現的時間尚不明確，不過，1920年代香奈兒發明了由澤西布（英語：jersey (布料)）製造的女性內褲，而這種布料一般用於製造內衣^[2]。後來眾所周知，另一個內衣外穿的知名版本隨着第二次世界大戰後T恤被發明出現^[3]。短袖襯衫最初被看作維多利亞風格內衣的舒適替代品，但一部分青少年受了占士·甸和馬龍·白蘭度等人分別在《阿飛正傳》和《欲望號街車》等電影中的穿衣影響，將襯衫外穿^[3]^[4]。文藝復興前期，比基尼泳衣等泳衣一開始被當成外衣^[5]，而由分層的雪紡、聚酯色丁和軟緞（英語：charmeuse）製造，一般用蕾絲修邊的吊帶裙於1990年代（英語：1990s in fashion）首次廣泛穿着^[6]。

在娛樂界，摔跤手和馬戲演員的制服一般為內衣樣式的服裝；前DC漫畫編輯朱利葉斯·施瓦茲（英語：Julius Schwartz）表示這就是超人等超級英雄把內褲穿在外衣上面的原因^[7]。隨後，麥當娜掀起了女歌手舞台表演時內衣外穿的潮流，後來被碧昂絲、Lady Gaga、布蘭妮·斯皮爾斯等人模仿^[8]。當時，讓-保羅·高緹耶為麥當娜的金髮雄心世界巡迴演唱會（英語：Blond Ambition World Tour）設計了「束腹」（90年代初服裝的象徵式標誌）^[9]、一款錐形文胸和束腰帶（英語：girdles）^[10]^[11]。男性方面，垮褲（連同滑雪板）一般被認為由1990年代的說唱嘻哈藝人推崇^[12]。

1968年的性革命運動中，受倫敦朋克文化和哥德次文化影響的年輕女性，開始將束腰改為反叛和「性怪異」的標誌。這次的變化，使得曾經被認為是壓迫女性的束腰，搖身變成女性賦權的服裝標誌^[13]。除了戀內衣，束腰也出現在晚禮服和結婚禮服上^[14]。

運動裝

在不同服裝品牌推陳出新的助推下，T恤衫最終成為運動裝^[3]。1975年，運動胸罩首次出現，自此成了女性的首選^[15]。但在1999年國際足聯女子世界盃決賽中，美國隊的布蘭迪·查斯頓憑藉在點球大戰中射入第五球戰勝中國隊。慶祝勝利時，查斯頓突然脫下襯衣，露出運動胸罩。部分人認為她的舉動是推動運動胸罩的歷史性事件^[15]^[16]。自那時起，運動胸罩開始逐漸被人外穿^[17]。

文化影響

社會通常將外穿內衣的民眾超現實主義、搞笑。無褲日在許多西方國家是年度活動，這一天民眾公開外穿內褲，暴露雙腿。類似的活動是地鐵無褲日（英語：No Pants Subway Ride），還有內衣一族跑（英語：Undie Run）活動。

踏入21世紀，低腰褲的普及讓鯨尾巴（英語：whale tail）意外流行，女生們立志穿着「凸顯臀部」的服裝^[18]，但是男性們穿垮褲卻影響了相當大的爭議，部分美國城鎮甚至將這種行為當成猥褻，勒令停止^[19]^[20]。終於，隨着2000年代末高腰（英語：High-waisted jeans）服飾的出現，鯨尾巴這一趨勢終結^[21]。

但是男性的服裝就沒有經過這樣的反彈，男生若是穿高腰褲，會被人嘲笑，說是在穿老爸款牛仔褲（英語：Dad jeans）^[22]。內衣公司注意到男生喜歡將褲子拉到臀部地方，這樣坐着的時候低腰褲就會落到內褲下面，穿緊身褲的男性便可以暴露他們內衣的腰帶^[23]，於是在設計腰帶時採用亮色和更大的標誌^[24]。Clavin Klein內衣創意設計者鮑勃·馬佐利（Bob Mazzoli）2009年解釋稱：「腰帶雖是功能性組件，卻是營銷平台和實際設計時的畫布......有些人將牛仔褲拉到腰部以下，將內褲露出來，引起其他人注意，已經成了我們民間文化風俗的一部分，我們在設計過程中就要考慮到這一點。」2(x)ist的創意總監傑森·斯卡拉蒂（Jason Scarlatti）補充：「這是顧客吹噓的權利，就好像在說，『我為此花了很多錢』^[24]。」Jockey是公認的首個將商標印在腰帶上的內衣品牌，該公司於2013年啟動營銷活動，模特們拉起襯衫，展示牛仔褲和短褲上的Jockey腰帶^[25]。

參見

參考資料

^ Lisa Jardine. Underwear as outerwear. BBC News. 2008-10-24 [2010-02-05]. （原始內容存檔於2020-11-09）.
^ From Marlon Brando to Kendall Jenner, 27 of the Best Classic White T-Shirts Ever. Vogue. 2015-05-20 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-07-07）.
^ ^3.0 ^3.1 ^3.2 monty. History of the T-Shirt | Men's T-Shirt Style Ideas | Burton. Burton. 2018-09-05 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-07-07）.
^ A Streetcar Named Desire – AMC filmsite. Filmsite.org. 1947-12-03 [2010-10-26]. （原始內容存檔於2012-08-02）.
^ Stephanie Pedersen. Bra. David & Charles. 2004: 8. ISBN 0-7153-2067-X.
^ Amy T. Peterson & Ann T. Kellogg (編). The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through American history 1900 to the present. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press. 2008: 229. ISBN 9780313358555. ^{[失效連結]}
^ Hiskey, Daven. Why Superheroes Wear their Underwear on the Outside. Today I Found Out. 2013-12-26 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-11-23）.
^ Alice Fisher. Underwear as outerwear. The Observer. 2009-11-29 [2010-02-05]. （原始內容存檔於2019-04-10）.
^ San Martin, Macarena (2011). Fashion Details: 1,000 Ideas from Neckline to Waistline, Pockets to Pleats. page 6. Rockport Publishers. ISBN 978-1-5925-3716-7.
^ Dana, Rebecca. Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Madonna: Dueling Cone Bras. The Daily Beast. 2010-06-15 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-07-07）.
^ Steele, Valarie. 「The Hard Body A Muscular Corset.」 The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven & London: Yale UP, 2001. 143-176. Print
^ "Teens' Sagging Jeans Not Just for 'Gangstas.'", Jennifer Skordas, Salt Lake Tribune. 15 October 1995 (p. B1).
^ Wilkins, Amy. "So Full of Myself as a Chick": Goth Women, Sexual Independence, and Gender Egalitarianism. Gender and Society. June 2004, 18 (3): 328–49. JSTOR 4149405. doi:10.1177/0891243204264421.
^ Crane, Diana. 「Postmodernism and the Avant-Garde: Stylistic Change in Fashion Design.」 Modernism/Modernity, 4, (1997), 123-140.
^ ^15.0 ^15.1 Komar, Marlen. The Surprising Feminist History Of The Sports Bra Will Make You Seriously Angry. Bustle. [2019-03-22]. （原始內容存檔於2020-10-11）.
^ Roberts, Jacob. Women's work. Distillations. 2017, 3 (1): 6–11 [2018-03-22]. （原始內容存檔於2018-03-23）.
^ Krucoff, Carol. Sports Bras Are a Bust for Some. Los Angeles Times. 1999-08-09 [2009-09-11]. （原始內容存檔於2009-04-06）.
^ Celebrities Are Showing Off Butt Cleavage - ABC News. ABC News. 2002-07-25 [2006-01-06]. （原始內容存檔於2020-12-16）.
^ Siddique, Haroon. US town bans saggy pants. The Guardian (Guardian Media Group). 2007-06-14 [2007-06-15].
^ Schneiderman, R.M. Ad Campaign Asks Queens Bus Riders to Pull Up Their Pants. The Wall Street Journal. Metropolis (blog). 2010-05-17 [2010-05-28]. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-09）.
^ Kczynski, Alex. Now You See It, Now You Don't. New York Times (Fashion & Style). 2004-09-12 [2008-10-30]. （原始內容存檔於2015-05-28）. Certainly, American clothing designers are now embracing a more modest look, their focus shifting from low-slung jeans and exposed midriffs to high-waisted trousers and cardigans.
^ Associated Press. Obama: No apologies for 'dad jeans'. Chicago Sun Times. 2009-07-21 [2013-02-05]. （原始內容存檔於2010-03-02）.
^ Underwear shows more than you think: Underwear Matters - AskMen. AskMen（英語：AskMen）. [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-07-04）. Men tend not to wear their trousers around their waists anymore, especially when it comes to jeans. Low-rise jeans are made to sit on your hips and this leaves the waistband of your underwear exposed. Your underwear is more visible than you think; the slight bend over or lift of your arms can show the world what you're rocking down there.
^ ^24.0 ^24.1 Underwear Waistbands: A Peekaboo Fashion Trend - WWD. WWD. 2009-04-09 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-10-20）.
^ Are You Ready to Show You're Jockey?. 2013-05-17 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2013-11-28）. Ever noticed guys with low-riding jeans deliberately showing their briefs』 waistband? Not the peeking type? Well, Jockey is. And they』ve turned this into a campaign. Jockey, inventor of the men’s Y-Front briefs and the first to use a branded waistband, launched their 「Show You’re Jockey」 campaign last Wednesday, May 15 at the Society Lounge in Makati City. The worldwide campaign will feature men and women of different nationalities revealing their Jockey underwear.

外部連結

Tove Hermanson. Innerwear as Outerwear. Thread for Thought blog. 2009-09-01 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2009-09-28）.
For More Fashion Products Visit Hollywood Leather Jackets （頁面存檔備份，存於網際網路檔案館）
- For Develop Something new Visit [1]（頁面存檔備份，存於網際網路檔案館）

[1] Lisa Jardine. Underwear as outerwear. BBC News. 2008-10-24 [2010-02-05]. （原始內容存檔於2020-11-09）.

[2] From Marlon Brando to Kendall Jenner, 27 of the Best Classic White T-Shirts Ever. Vogue. 2015-05-20 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-07-07）.

[Burton-3] 3.0 ^3.1 ^3.2 monty. History of the T-Shirt | Men's T-Shirt Style Ideas | Burton. Burton. 2018-09-05 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-07-07）.

[4] A Streetcar Named Desire – AMC filmsite. Filmsite.org. 1947-12-03 [2010-10-26]. （原始內容存檔於2012-08-02）.

[5] Stephanie Pedersen. Bra. David & Charles. 2004: 8. ISBN 0-7153-2067-X.

[6] Amy T. Peterson & Ann T. Kellogg (編). The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through American history 1900 to the present. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press. 2008: 229. ISBN 9780313358555. ^{[失效連結]}

[7] Hiskey, Daven. Why Superheroes Wear their Underwear on the Outside. Today I Found Out. 2013-12-26 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-11-23）.

[8] Alice Fisher. Underwear as outerwear. The Observer. 2009-11-29 [2010-02-05]. （原始內容存檔於2019-04-10）.

[9] San Martin, Macarena (2011). Fashion Details: 1,000 Ideas from Neckline to Waistline, Pockets to Pleats. page 6. Rockport Publishers. ISBN 978-1-5925-3716-7.

[10] Dana, Rebecca. Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Madonna: Dueling Cone Bras. The Daily Beast. 2010-06-15 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-07-07）.

[11] Steele, Valarie. 「The Hard Body A Muscular Corset.」 The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven & London: Yale UP, 2001. 143-176. Print

[12] "Teens' Sagging Jeans Not Just for 'Gangstas.'", Jennifer Skordas, Salt Lake Tribune. 15 October 1995 (p. B1).

[13] Wilkins, Amy. "So Full of Myself as a Chick": Goth Women, Sexual Independence, and Gender Egalitarianism. Gender and Society. June 2004, 18 (3): 328–49. JSTOR 4149405. doi:10.1177/0891243204264421.

[14] Crane, Diana. 「Postmodernism and the Avant-Garde: Stylistic Change in Fashion Design.」 Modernism/Modernity, 4, (1997), 123-140.

[komar-15] 15.0 ^15.1 Komar, Marlen. The Surprising Feminist History Of The Sports Bra Will Make You Seriously Angry. Bustle. [2019-03-22]. （原始內容存檔於2020-10-11）.

[Distillations-16] Roberts, Jacob. Women's work. Distillations. 2017, 3 (1): 6–11 [2018-03-22]. （原始內容存檔於2018-03-23）.

[krucoff-17] Krucoff, Carol. Sports Bras Are a Bust for Some. Los Angeles Times. 1999-08-09 [2009-09-11]. （原始內容存檔於2009-04-06）.

[18] Celebrities Are Showing Off Butt Cleavage - ABC News. ABC News. 2002-07-25 [2006-01-06]. （原始內容存檔於2020-12-16）.

[19] Siddique, Haroon. US town bans saggy pants. The Guardian (Guardian Media Group). 2007-06-14 [2007-06-15].

[20] Schneiderman, R.M. Ad Campaign Asks Queens Bus Riders to Pull Up Their Pants. The Wall Street Journal. Metropolis (blog). 2010-05-17 [2010-05-28]. （原始內容存檔於2020-08-09）.

[21] Kczynski, Alex. Now You See It, Now You Don't. New York Times (Fashion & Style). 2004-09-12 [2008-10-30]. （原始內容存檔於2015-05-28）. Certainly, American clothing designers are now embracing a more modest look, their focus shifting from low-slung jeans and exposed midriffs to high-waisted trousers and cardigans.

[22] Associated Press. Obama: No apologies for 'dad jeans'. Chicago Sun Times. 2009-07-21 [2013-02-05]. （原始內容存檔於2010-03-02）.

[23] Underwear shows more than you think: Underwear Matters - AskMen. AskMen（英語：AskMen）. [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-07-04）. Men tend not to wear their trousers around their waists anymore, especially when it comes to jeans. Low-rise jeans are made to sit on your hips and this leaves the waistband of your underwear exposed. Your underwear is more visible than you think; the slight bend over or lift of your arms can show the world what you're rocking down there.

[WWD-24] 24.0 ^24.1 Underwear Waistbands: A Peekaboo Fashion Trend - WWD. WWD. 2009-04-09 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2020-10-20）.

[25] Are You Ready to Show You're Jockey?. 2013-05-17 [2020-10-04]. （原始內容存檔於2013-11-28）. Ever noticed guys with low-riding jeans deliberately showing their briefs』 waistband? Not the peeking type? Well, Jockey is. And they』ve turned this into a campaign. Jockey, inventor of the men’s Y-Front briefs and the first to use a branded waistband, launched their 「Show You’re Jockey」 campaign last Wednesday, May 15 at the Society Lounge in Makati City. The worldwide campaign will feature men and women of different nationalities revealing their Jockey underwear.

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